Permanent waving



J ys, 193s EESUTERETAL- ,122 183 PERMANENT WAVI NG Filed April 30,1936 4 Sheets-Sheet l lN-VENTORS EUGENE F. 8075/? ATTO NEYS GEO/P865 B. FIN/VEGAN Jk.

July 5,4938.

5. F. SUTER El AL 7 2,122,783

PERMANENT WAVING Filed April 30, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 lNVENTO R EUGENE E 8075/? GEORGE E. F/N/VEGAN JR.

' I 15 2'6 7 M ATTO NE Ys y 5, 1 38. E. F. SUTER ET AL ,122,783

PERMANENT WAVING Filed April 30, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 EUGENE F NVENTORS 6501965 8. fi /wvzam/ JR.

July 5, 938- E; F. SUTER El AL 2,122,783

PERMANENT WAVI NG Filed April 30, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTORS EUG'EWE E 80751? GEO/P65 B. FIN/VEGAN JR.

TTORNEYS Patented July 5, 1938 lJNlTED- STATES PATENT OFFIQE PERMANENT WAVING of New York Application April 30, 1936, Serial No. 77,124

13 Claims.

The invention relates to permanent waving and moreparticularly to a novel and useful methd and means for applying the Waving chemicals to the wound tress while protecting the customers scalp and hair from injury and discomfort.

Objects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in part hereinafter and in part will be obvious herefrom, or may be learned by prac tice with the invention, the same being realized and attained by means of the instrumentalities and combinations pointed out in the appended claims.

The invention consists in the novel parts, constructions, arrangements, combinations and improvements herein shown and described.

The accompanying drawings, referred to herein and constituting a part hereof, illustrate one embodiment of the invention, and together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the invention.

Of the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a combined scalp and lotion pad embodying certain features of the invention;

Fig. 2 is a view of the pad'shown in Fig. 1 with the component parts separated to illustrate the construction Fig. 3 is an elevation of a typical curler to be used with the invention;

Fig. 4 is a perspective View of a pad-gripping clamp;

Fig. 5 is a plan view of the clamp shown in Fig. 4;

Figs. 6 to 9 are sectional views of successive steps in performing the method of the invention;

Fig. 10 is a horizontal section on line |0|El of Fig. 7;

Fig. 11 is a plan view of a modified form of pad clamp;

Fig. 12 is an end elevation of the device shown in Fig. 11;

Fig. 13 is a view similar to Fig. 12 with the hair curler and gripping means in gripping position;

Fig. 14 is a central transverse section showing the clamp of Figs. 11 to13 with the pad and hair in place;

Fig. 15 is a view of a second modified form of clamp;

Fig. 16 is a section on line Iii-46 of Fig. 15;

Fig. 17 is a perspective View of a combined scalp pad and electrolytic heating pad;

' Fig. 18 is a longitudinal section showing the device of Fig. 17 in place for heating;

Fig. 19 is a front elevation of a pad such as is shown in Fig. 17 with a binding tab;

Fig. 20 is a plan View of another modified form of pad gripping clamp; and

Fig. 21 is a transverse section of a modified form of combined scalp' and electrolytic pad.

The invention is directed to providing improvements in devices for preparing hair for the heating action in the permanent waving process. As one such improved device the invention provides a novel and useful pad for protecting the scalp and hair of the customer from burns and discomfort due to the heating action and the leakage of hot liquid and vapor from the lotion applicators. The invention combines with such a protective pad the lotion applying pad or absorbent itself to form an integral, unitary device which can be applied tothe hair very simply and easily and which will facilitate the application of the other devices such as clamps and heaters necessary to complete the waving process.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved and simplified method of performing the steps necessary to protect the customers scalp and hair and toprepare the hair for the heating operation. The improved features of the novel method not only simplify the waving process but produce a more uniform, stronger and more beautiful curl, while also enhancing the comfort and safety of the customer. The construction of the novel pad of the invention and the novel method of using same result in a very uniform and thorough application of waving fiuid and vapor to the hair, thereby shortening the time of the process and improving the result. Furthermore, by virtue of the novel constructions herein disclosed, the weight and. bulk of the apparatus attached to the customers scalp and hair are materially reduced, thereby further contributing to efficiency and comfort in the waving process.

Broadly described the invention comprises a novel pad which combines as its functions protection of the scalp from heat and leakage of hot liquid and steam; application of the waving chemicals or lotion to the hair; and enclosure of the wound tress in a secure and substantially continuous steaming tube or chamber. The construction of said pad preferably embodies a base of absorbent material adapted to lie against the scalp, the tress passing through a suitable opening in the pad, so that the pad closely embraces the tress at the roots. An absorbent sheet extends from the upper face of the pad in the same general direction as the tress, said sheet being adapted to perform the usual functions of the lotion applicator after the hair is wound. Suitable moisture-retaining material may also be attached to the pad to overlie the absorbent sheet. Thus the hair is protected at its base with absorbent material which also extends around and entirely embraces the wound tress, thereby forming a substantially continuous lotion-applying and steam-retaining chamber about the cylindrical curler and curl thereon. The construction described thus contributes materially to the protection of the scalp and also improves the quality of the wave especially in that it makes possible the application of heated lotion to substantially the entire circumference of the wound cylinder of hair.

In carrying out the novel steps of the process, a strand of hair is first passed through the opening in the pad as described. The upstanding portions of the pad are then gripped tightly against the bottom portion of the tress to secure the pad'thereto and to prevent leakage of steam and moisture to the scalp. The hair is then wound upon a curler, preferably in Croquignole fashion and the wound curler seated on the clamp. Then the upstanding free portions of the pad may be wrapped about the hair and curler to form a substantially continuous, tubelike closure. The hair and/or free portions of the absorbent material may be wetted with hair waving lotion in any known manner and heat may be applied to the assembled device in any suitable way.

The invention further comprises novel devices for facilitating the positioning of the pad parts as a tubular enclosure about the hair including means on the clamp for compacting and retaining the free end or ends of the portions of the pad which are wrapped about the curl.

In addition to advantages pointed out hereinabove the invention makes it possible to use a much lighter and simpler construction of clamp inasmuch as the protection afforded by the novel pad renders unnecessary the attachment of heat insulating and absorbent members to the clamp itself. Likewise it is unnecessary to provide the clamp with frictional gripping faces of rubber or similar material due to the fact that the clamp is not applied to the hair but grips the yielding material of the sachet or pad itself.

It will be understood that the foregoing general description and the following detailed description as well are exemplary and explanatory of the invention but are not restrictive thereof.

Referring now in detail to the present preferred embodiments of the invention, illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawings, one form of pad embodying the invention is illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. Said device comprises an absorbent pad I adapted to surround the base of a tress and to overlie and protect the adjacent portions of the scalp. As shown, the pad I is of rectangular shape and relatively long and narrow, in the form shown being adapted for use in the so-called Croquignole process of permanent waving wherein the hair is formed in a relatively thin, broad strand and wound overlappingly from the ends towards the scalp. It will be understood, however, that many features of the invention are also applicable to other known systems of waving and that the pad I may be given any appropriate shape such as circular, oval, or the like to conform to the conditions of use. The scalp pad I is preferably formed of felt or fairly heavy flannel, but if desired, may be made of heavy absorbent paper, sponge rubber or any suitable flexible moisture absorbing and heat insulating material. An opening or slot 2 is provided centrally of the pad extending longitudinally thereof and lying well within the borders of the pad. Said slot is designed to permit the passage of the hair strand A (Fig. 6) through the pad and the strand may be drawn through the slot by a hook or in any other manner known in the art. It will be understood, of course, that any suitable shape may be given to the slot, said shape preferably conforming to the shape of the strand to be treated. While preferably entirely surrounded by material, the slot may cut through an edge of the material and the pad applied to the hair by spreading apart the pad at the split edge, As shown the slot is very narrow so that it will closely hug the sides of the tress and thereby tend to seal the scalp along the opening.

In accordance with the invention an absorbent sheet 3, for retaining lotion and applying it to the hair, is provided to extend upwardly from the surface of scalp pad I from near the edge of slot 2. As shown, said absorbent sheet 3 is in width substantially the length of slot 2 and of a length suflicient to permit it to be wrapped around at least a substantial part of' the periphery of a wound tress. The sheet 3 may be attached to the base pad I by any suitable means andas shown is provided with an enlarged base portion 4 which lies along the surface of pad I and may be attached thereto in a suitable manner. If desired the sheet 3 may be woven or formed as an integral part of the absorbent material forming the pad in which case it would extend upwardly from the pad itself as a tongue of the same material. Normally, however, the absorbent sheet 3 may conveniently be less in thickness than the scalp pad I and if so may be formed as a separate piece as shown.

For further facilitating the formation in use of a lotion-applying pad embracing practically the entire circumference of the wound tress, another sheet of absorbent material 5 may be mounted on the pad I and extend upwardly from the opposite edge of the slot As shown the sheet 5 is of essentially the same construction as the sheet 3 and is attached tothe pad I in a similar manner. Sheet 5 is preferably of shorter length, thus serving to extend only part way around the curl and to be overlapped by the end of the longer sheet 3 as indicated in Figs. 8 and 9. The sheet 5 thus serves to embrace and protect the lower arcuate face of the wound tress and to permit formation of the complete tubular en-' closure at a convenient position above the scalp pad I. If desired, however, the sheets 3 and 5 may be made of equal or nearly equal lengths, sufiicient to form an overlapping tubular enclosure about the curl.

Suitable means are provided for sealing the wound and Wrapped tress in a substantially steam and moisture-proof tubular chamber preparatory to the heating action. One or more sheets of materials having suitable known and convention- Similarly the outer surface of the absorbent sheet is covered with a paper liner 8 and a foil cover 9 as shown. As shown in Fig. 1,

all the several sheets, 3, 5, 6, I, 8 and 9 are attached to pad I by rows of stitching II! at either end.

Preferably the cover sheets 6 and 1 are made somewhat longer than the absorbent sheet 3, while sheets 8 and 9 are somewhat shorter than the opposite absorbent sheet 5. This construction enables the hair cylinder to be entirely enclosed in an overlapping tube of absorbent, lotion-impregnated material, while the protective sealing sheets will overlie the entire tubular assemblyand form a complete overlapping seal along a diiferent line (Fig. 9). In accordance with the invention means are provided for tightly gripping the sheathlike plies of the pad against the strand of hair where it issues from the slot 2 in the scalp pad I. For this purpose we provide a special clamp construction which is adapted to enclose the upstanding sheets of the pad and tightly bind same against the strand of hair. As embodied (Figs. 4 and 5) a suitable clamp is formed of relatively long, narrow and fiat bars l5 and I6 which are hingedly connected at one end through a suitable bracket IT. The opposite ends of the bars are adapted to swing apart to permit application to the tress and surrounding portions of the pad when same have been placed in the condition illustrated in Fig. 6. Clamping closure, of the free ends of the bars l5 and I6 may be made by a bracket arm l8 which is pivotally attached to the end of the arm I5 and which supports a latch member l9 pivotally connected at its free end. As shown, the latch member has a locking cam which is adapted to seat and turn in the conforming recess 2| formed in the slotted end 22 of the arm I6. At the closed end of the clamp the bracket membar I] is upturned to provide a curler receiving yoke 23, while a similar yoke 24 is formed for the opposite end of the clamp on the bracket member I8. A croquignole curler 25 of conventional construction and adapted to have a one-way tightening movement when seated in the yokes 23 and 24 is shown in Fig. 3.

In one preferred form of the clamping means, the pad engaging faces of the bars l5 and i6 are provided with spaced-apart projections or teeth 26 which are staggered with respect to each other and thus form a zig-zag series of complementary pad engaging and gripping surfaces. It has been found that this construction will grip opposing faces of the pad sheets lying against the hair very tightly and will exert a stretching action on the pad itself, thereby insuring a very positive moisture and vapor sealing action. The gripping action of the clamp and the configuration imparted thereby to the pad and strand are illustrated in Fig. 10. It will be seen that the teeth 26 of the clamp bar are spaced apart so that they would not exert any gripping action if applied to the hair alone, but will very tightly compress and stretch the sheets of the pad when the hair is between them. Furthermore the toothed construction provides a sealing zone without straight lines, thus tending to prevent the formation of a straight line contact with the hair, which sometimes produces channels and causes leakage of liquid along the hair shafts. By gripping the hair with the wedge-shaped teeth. rather than in a fiat strand, the tendency of the clamp and pad to seal against moisture and steam is enhanced. If desired, however, the toothed construction shown and described may be omitted and the pad-gripping faces left plain, as shown by the modified form indicated in Fig. 20. In either case, however, it is unnecessary to provide resilient or absorbent means along the gripping jaws of the clamp as the interposition of the pad surfaces provides a suflicient amount of yielding material to assure a tight seal in the gripping zone.

' The steps of the method and the manner of use of the instrumentalities hereinbefore described are illustrated in Figs. 6 to 9. After the hair strand A has'been drawn through the slot 2 and the pad I seated on the scalp as shown in Fig. 6, the clamp is closed about the upstanding sheets of the pad just above the slot 2, as shown in Figs. 7 and 10. The hair is then wound from the tips in Croquignole fashion about the curler 25 and the curler seated in the yokes 23 and 24 where it nests in the V-shaped recess between the absorbent sheets 3 and 5. As is common in practice, the sheets 3 and 5 will preferably be wetted with the curling lotion before application of the pad to the tress. The tress itself may also be moistened with the lotion in accordance with one form of standard practice. If desired, however, the waving liquid may be applied to the absorbent sheets either just before or just after the winding operation.

After the curler is seated as shown in Fig. 8, the free end of the absorbent sheet 3 is brought around to overlap the upstanding edge of sheet 5, thereby embracing the entire cylindrical surface of the curled tress A with lotion-carrying absorbent material. The trailing edge of the sealing sheets 6 and I will then be extended over the absorbent sheets and tucked into the angle between the upper face of the clamp and the upper edge of sheets 8 and 9 as shown in Fig. 9. Thus the entire outer surface of the curl will be sealed so that the steam and moisture will act I thoroughly and uniformly thereon. A conventional form of metallic resistance heater 28 is shown in Fig. 9 in position for the heating action.

In Figs. 11 to 14 we show a modified form of clamping mechanism adapted to impart additional clamping action to the tress and to confine the curl more securely within the steaming tube or enclosure. As shown the clamping device is provided with a supplementary gripping arm 3!) which is adapted to be moved into gripping position only after the curler has been seated in the tightening yokes 23 and 24. Said arm 30 is preferably used to overlie and retain the trailing edges of the sealing sheets 6 and I and thereby enhance the sealing action of the device. As constructed the arm 38 is pivotally mounted on the attached end of the clamp arm [5 so that it is movable relative to said clamp arm. Means for moving the arm 30 to gripping position and for holding same in place comprises an actuating link 3| pivotally mounted to swing in a vertical plane about the open end of the clamp. Said arm 3| is adapted to engage and press against a bearing lug 32 formed on the free end of gripping arm 38. Means for holding the arms 3| upright to bear against the lug 32 comprises a second latch arm 35 pivotally connected near the upper end of arm 3| and movable therewith. The latch arm 35 is of sickle shape, the curved portion thereof being adapted to overlie and embrace the end of curler 25 when same is seated in the yoke arm 24 and an annular recess 36 is provided in the curler for receiving the curved portion of latch arm 35. It will be clear that compressing closure of the arm 30 cannot be effected except when cnrler 25 is seated in theyoke 24 to" provide a gripping fulcrum for the latch member 35.

The operation of the gripping arm 30 in engaging and retaining the free'end of the sealing sheet is shown in Fig. 14, where it will be seen that the arm tends to pack and tuck the sealing sheets into theangle formed with the upper surface of the clamp arm !5 and to'thereby tighten the entire assembly of the pad and clampabout the curl.

Another modified form of latch or gripper for seating and holding the free end of the sealing sheets 6 and I is shown in Figs. 15 and 16. As indicated; said means comprises a bail having a retaining bar Ml adapted to extend along and overlie the upper surface of clamp bar I5 when in the retaining position. Said bail is pivotally mounted at either end of the clamp bar H) by ears 4! which extend laterally and then downwardly at a right angle to the bar 4|] and are pivoted on corresponding supporting ears 5.12 which extend from the clamp bar l5. A leaf spring 43 is connected to the device so as to hold the bar 40 firmly in either position indicated in Fig. 16 but permitting to be snapped from one position to the other, similarly to the movement of a jackknife blade. Y

The principal features of the invention are applicable to form of permanent waving pads or sachets wherein the heating mechanism is incorporated in the body of the lotion carrying pad itself. As shown in Figs. 17 and 18 the invention is illustrated as applied to a permanent waving sachet of the electrolytic type as di's closed in pending application of Durham and Finnegan Serial No. 75,904, filed April 23, 1936. As shown, the slotted scalp pad I has attached thereto an upstanding absorbent sheet 50 which corresponds in general shape and construction to the absorbent sheet 3 of the device shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Said absorbent sheet 50 is adapted to absorb and retain an electrolyte, which may conveniently be the hair waving lotion and which in use is adapted to be heated and vaporized by the passage of electric current therethrough. The opposite faces of the upstanding sheet 55 are mounted in surface contact with electrodes formed of flexible and deformable metal foil or the like. The inner electrode 5! is preferably perforate for the passage of liquid and vapor and is somewhat narrower than the absorbent sheet 50 so that an insulating margin is provided by the latter. The outer surface of the absorbent sheet 5!! is in contact with the outer electrode sheet 52 which lies in register therewith and is likewise narrower to provide insulating edges of absorbent material. A contact terminal for the inner foil electrode 5! is provided by folding an extension of said electrode 5| around one end of the sheets 5!! and52 to form a terminal surface 55 on the exterior of the device. An insulating sheet 54 of parchment paper, cellophane, or the like, may be positioned between the terminal member 53 and the inferior portion of the electrode 52. Said insulated sheet 54 preferably constitutes an extension of a larger rectangular sheet of insulating material 55 which underlies the entire inner surface of the absorbent sheet 55 and of the inner electrode 5!. Said sheet 55 is preferably perforated in register with the foil 5|.

An upstanding short absorbent strip 56 may be provided on the opposite side of the slot 2 in the pad 1 to cooperate with the sachet to form a tubular closure about the curl in a manner similar to the sheet 5 in the pad hereinbefore described.

Sheet 56 may consist of gauze or similar absorbent or may be of the same material as the sheet 50 and if desired may be provided with exterior sealing sheets of paper, cellophane or the like.

The manner of applying the device shown in Fig. 1"! to a clamp andcurling rod is indicated in Fig. 13 and electrical contacts to the terminal member 53 and the exposed surfaces of the outer electrode 52 are diagrammatically indicated by the low voltage leads 6!] and. BI respectively.

In Fig. 19 is shown a modification of the pad disclosed in Fig. 17 having a tab 10 of gauze, cellophane or the like attached to the leading edge of sheet 55 and adapted to be wound in with the final turn of the curler in tightening the hair so as to facilitate close engagement and wrapping of the device about the curl.

Another modification is shown Fig. 21 wherein the electrolyte absorbent member 50 is formed as an integral part of the material making up the scalp pad I.

The invention in its broader aspects is not limited, to the specific mechanisms shown and described but departures may be made therefrom within the scope of the accompanying claims without departing from the principles of the invention and without sacrificing its chief advantages.

What we claim is:

1. A device for permanent waving including in combination a scalp-protecting pad adapted to lie against the scalp adjacent a tress to be wound, an absorbent sheet projecting from the upper face of the pad, moisture sealing material on the outer surface of said sheet, flexible sheet-like heating means adjacent to said absorbent sheet, means for supporting the wound tress on the pad and substantially parallel to the upper face thereof, the absorbent sheet and sealing material being wrapped around the wound tress.

2. A device for permanent waving including in combination a scalp-protecting pad having an opening for the passage of a hair strand, an absorbent sheet projecting from the upper face of the pad on one side of said opening, flexible sheetlike heating means adjacent to said absorbent sheet, a second absorbent sheet projecting from the upper face of the pad on the opposite side of said opening, said sheets being bendable away from the opening to receive the wound tress between them.

3. A device for permanent waving including in combination a scalp-protecting pad having an opening for the passage of a hair strand, an abscrbent sheet projecting from the upper face of the pad on one side of said opening, flexible sheetlike heating means adjacent to said absorbent sheet, a second absorbent sheet projecting from the upper face of the pad on the opposite side of said opening, said sheets being bendable away from the opening to receive the wound tress between them and of a length suflicient to form a tubular Wrapping about the wound tress when it positioned between them.

4. A device for permanent waving including in combination a scalp-protecting pad having an opening for the passage of a hair strand, an absorbent sheet projecting from the upper face of the pad on one side of said opening, flexible sheet-like heating means adjacent to said absorbent sheet, a second absorbent sheet projecting from the upper face of the pad on the opposite side of said opening, said sheets being bendable away from the opening to receive the wound tress between them and of a length sufficient to form a tubular wrapping about the wound tress when it is positioned between them, and a moisture sealing cover attached to the pad to overlie the tress and absorbent wrapping.

5. In permanent waving the steps of dividing the hair on a head into strands, enclosing the base of a strand With absorbent material, tightly gripping the absorbent material against the strand just above the scalp While permitting a portion of the absorbent material to extend freely above the gripped zone, winding the strand about a curler and positioning the curler with the strand Wound thereon adjacent the gripped zone, and wrapping the free portion of the absorbent material about the wound strand.

6. In permanent waving the steps of dividing the hair on a head into strands, enclosing the base of a strand with absorbent material, tightly gripping the absorbent material against the strand just above the scalp while permitting a portion of the absorbent material to extend freely above the gripped zone, Winding the strand about a curler and positioning the curler with the strand Wound thereon adjacent the gripped zone, and wrapping the free portion of the absorbent material together with hair-waving lotion about the wound strand.

7. In permanent Waving the steps of dividing the hair on a head into strands, enclosing the base of a strand with absorbent material, tightly gripping the absorbent material against the strand just above the scalp while permitting a portion of the absorbent material to extend freely above the gripped zone, winding the strand about a curler and positioning the curler with the strand wound thereon adjacent the gripped zone, and wrapping the free portion of the absorbent material about the wound strand and covering the strand and absorbent material with a moisture sealing cover.

8. In permanent waving the steps of dividing the hair on a head into strands, enclosing the base of a strand with absorbent material, tightly gripping the absorbent material against the strand just above the scalp while permitting a portion of the absorbent material to extend freely above the gripped zone, winding the strand about a curler and positioning the curler with the strand wound thereon adjacent the gripped zone, and wrapping the free portion of the absorbent material together with hair-waving lotion about the wound strand, sealing the wrapped strand against escape of moisture and applying heat thereto.

9. In permanent waving the steps of dividing the hair on a head into strands, enclosing the base of a strand with absorbent material, tightly gripping theabsorbent material against the strand just above the scalp while permitting a portion of the absorbent material to extend freely above the gripped zone on either side of the strand, winding the strand about a curler and positioning the curler with the strand wound thereon adjacent the gripped zone, and wrapping the free portion of the absorbent material about the wound strand.

10. A device for permanent waving including in combination means for clamping a strand of hair near the base comprising a fixed member, means attached thereto for receiving and supporting a curler substantially tangent to the scalp, and a member movable to tightly grip the hair against said fixed member when the curler is seated on the fixed member, and means cooperating with the seated curler to position the movable member to grip the hair.

11, A device for permanent waving including in combination means for clamping a. strand of hair near the base comprising a fixed member, means attached thereto for receiving and supporting a curler substantially tangent to the scalp,

and a member pivotally connected to the fixed member and movable to tightly grip the hair against said fixed member when the curler is seated on the fixed member, and means cooperating with the seated curler to position the movable member to grip the hair.

12. A device for permanent waving including in combination means for clamping a strand of hair near the base comprising a fixed member, means attached thereto for receiving and supporting a curler substantially tangent to the scalp, and a member movable to tightly grip the hair against said fixed member when the curler is seated on the fixed member and locking means operable only when the curler is seated to close the clamp.

13. A device for permanent waving including in combination a clamp for surrounding a strand of hair near the base and gripping one end of a lotion absorbent pad against the hair, means on said clamp for receiving and supporting a curler with the strand wound thereon in a position substantially tangent to the scalp, and means carried by the clamp for gripping the other end of the absorbent pad against the curler after it has been wrapped about the curl.

EUGENE F. SUTER. GEORGE E. FINNEGAN, JR., 

